By Sílvia Oliveira

For my daughter’s first backpacking trip, when she was nine months old, I decided to introduce her to the Curitiba-Morretes- Paranagua Railway. The journey reveals a landmark of 19th-century engineering.  Nine thousand men toiled on the daring project that was completed in five years. A record by the standards of the time. Dozens of languages and styles depart every day from the railway station in Curitiba bound for the fascinating Serra do Mar.

Following the tracks – opened 120 years ago – the trip takes place amid the rich rainforest: a piece of Parana recognized by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve. The carriages are a modern Babel on the journey of just over three hours. The route is filled with amazing images, boasting 14 tunnels, 30 bridges, waterfalls and abysses. The train teeters on the tracks and at some moments, like the Carvalho viaduct, seems to fly over the sleepers. The Roca Nova Tunnel is the longest at 457 metres.

The feelings of fear that we sometimes experience in the train (it looks as if it will plunge headlong down the mountainside!)  are followed immediately by the pleasure of being involved in the time-honoured combination of adventure, scenery and history. Soon after departure, the onboard service begins. They deliver a nice little box that includes a cake, a biscuit, a cereal bar and a drink (water, tea, juice or a soft  drink). A guide accompanies us all the time giving the necessary information about the trip. Passengers also receive a bag of palm seeds to be thrown into the forest during the trip. An initiative from the Serra Verde Express (the company that manages the tour) in partnership with the Rotary Club to contribute to the ecosystem.

When buying the ticket there are several categories: economy, tourist, business or cabin and Litorina. Economy class seats are plastic, there is no on-board service and a one-way ticket sells for R$39.00. Tourist class costs R$66.00 and executive class is R$96.00. Executive class and above boast an open bar. The Litorina – a self-powered vehicle – is considered the most charming. It has air conditioning and a bilingual conductor. The ticket costs R$270.00.

Passengers vie for the panoramic windows. It is a constant back and forth between the right and left sides of the carriage, since photo opportunities appear on both. After passing through Marumbi station it is only another 45 minutes to Morretes, our final destination. The train only travels on to Paranagua – one of the most important historical cities in Parana – on Sundays. Alighting causes a somewhat disorganised exodus.

On weekends, almost 1,200 passengers make the trip. The town’s womenfolk rush to meet the tourists offering the regions most typical products: banana sweets and related items. There is a small stall set up at the station itself with some of these delicacies. The train journey alone makes the trip  worthwhile. But upon alighting there is more: Morretes and Antonina, two of Parana’s most charming and historic cities. They can both be visited on the same day (if you rush) or you may choose to stay overnight in one of them to enjoy the best that each offers.

Once you get off the train you have to make your way back to Curitiba, either by minibus, or by coaches operated by Viação Graciosa. The minibuses charge around R$40.00 per head from Morretes to Curitiba. The coach fare costs a mere R$13.00. You can also catch the train back, which leaves Morretes at 3pm (4pm on Sundays). But it is quite tiring – as the descent takes three hours (when there are no delays) and the return trip takes another four. Whichever way you look at it, this is one of the most beloved and harmonious journeys in Brazil: It blends people perfectly with history and nature.

INFORMATION

Serra Verde Express | www.serraverdeexpress.com.br

Departure time => Curitiba Train: every day, at 8:15am. | Litorina: Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays, at 9:15am.

IMPORTANT!

Economy class tickets must be purchased two weeks in advance as they are much sought after. Residents of Curitiba and region have a 30% discount on ticket prices (except for economy class). You must register on the Serra Verde Express site provide proof of residence.

by Sílvia Oliveira

I first came to Curitiba ten years ago. Since then I have been to Spain doing my master’s and doctorate degrees. I came back here and stayed. I have spent more than 500 weekends in the capital of Parana. On at least three hundred of them, I must have been to the Largo da Ordem street market, Curitiba, which is held every Sunday.

What few people know is that the tour should start on Saturday. Largo da Ordem houses the oldest buildings in the city and one of my weaknesses: colourful houses and historic buildings. Every time I go there, I feel like a naïve tourist. In the square is the 18th-century Church of the Third Order of St. Francis. It is the cheapest and most fun day out in the city. To admire costs nothing.

Nevertheless, it is a fact: the historical centre of Curitiba has found its way into the tour guides more for one of the largest craft fairs in Latin America than for its architecture. Sunday, come rain or come shine, there it is! An enormous outdoor market where you can find a little of everything: paintings, carvings, embroidery, wooden pencils, knitting, candles, jewellery, baskets, slippers, handbags, flowers, curtains, tablecloths, napkins, bonsai, mandalas, rugs,  dolls, hammocks, and many “etceteras”.

However, the market’s greatest riches are its characters. There are the artisans, the tourists, even us locals; simple and relaxed folk. Not to mention the curious types that appear there: the opera singer, the old accordion player, the blind brothers who sing country songs, the living statue, the girl with the beaded hair and the chap who makes dolls from clay.

Tip number 1: arrive early. The market opens at 9a.m. and by then it is already chaos. It is crowded, really crowded. There are over a thousand exhibitors and 15,000 visitors each Sunday. In the midst of this massive crowd, look up. You will see the colourful houses contrasting with  the blue sky. If it is cloudy, focus on the different shades and hues of the tents.

Tip number 2: do not take much money. The Largo da Ordem street market has the strange power of unleashing an obsessive-compulsive shopping disorder. Everything is so cheap, so easy, so quick, and so pretty that when we come to our senses we are taking half the market home with us! I no longer know what to do with so many tea towels and fridge magnets.

Like any good outdoor crafts fair that is worth visiting, the Largo da Ordem street market has a large “food court”. Confirming the immigrant tradition of the city are several stalls selling all those delights that are forbidden during the week, such as pasties, Polish pirogue, acarajé from Bahia, fritters, biscuits, crystallized sweets, Mexican tacos, beef skewers and the crowning glory: deep-fried meat pasties with sugar cane juice. See you there next Sunday?

Information:

Largo da Ordem Streetmarket

Location: Praça Coronel Enéas and Praça Garibaldi – São Francisco.

Opening hours: Sundays – 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

Site: www.feiradolargo.com.br

Um dia desses, passando pelo centro histórico de Curitiba, resolvi entrar no escritório de informações turísticas que tem por ali. De cara vi uma plaquinha: visitas guiadas gratuitas. Cuma? Alguém para me levar pelos principais pontos, dando explicações culturais e ainda por cima de grátis? Pensei que isso só existisse na Zoropa.

Funciona assim: você liga e marca. Pronto. A orientadora da Ação Educativa do Memorial de Curitiba, Claudia Klein Arioli ( responsável pelo projeto “Trilhas da Cidade da Gente”)  me disse que com dois turistas apenas já é possível agendar a visita. São mais de 20 pontos visitados no Centro Histórico, um mergulho na memória e construção da cidade. O passeio dura mais ou menos 1h30.

Para agendar sua visita, ligue djá no Memorial de Curitiba: 41 3321.3226.

Fotos: Matraca’s Image Bank

A jornalista Tatiana Escosteguy teve uma ideia genial: criou o blog Curitiba Free, onde reúne as atrações gratuitas da cidade. Especialista em Mídia Educação, atualmente Tatiana é repórter e apresentadora da TV Sinal. Inclusive nós já chegamos a trabalhar juntas na rede gRobo!  Até onde sei, o Curitiba Free é o único site do gênero (tratando-se da capital paranense) em atividade no país. Portanto, trate de favoritar já!

Dias ensolarados. No centro histórico. Agende sua visita guiada grátis na Fundação Cultural pelo (41) 3321.3226.

Foto: Matraca’s Image Bank

 by Sílvia Oliveira

If you chose only one weekend to visit Curitiba you know it will be almost impossible to visit all the  city’s parks in 48 hours. Here, if you’re not careful, even a vase of flowers is likely to be fitted out with  an entrance portal, a waterfall, two or three trails… and before you know it, a park is born!

We have parks for all tastes, all types, by the yard. They are made for those not in a hurry. Devised for those who like to enjoy what man and nature are capable of doing together.  But if I had to recommend only one (based on my enamoured  opinion, if you’ll permit me), visit the Ukrainian Memorial.

To me it is the most hotogenic and – architecturally speaking – one of the most interesting. The memorial is located in Tingui Park and, as the name implies, pays tribute to Ukrainian immigrants in Curitiba. The Ukrainian Memorial is, in fact, a complex: it has a replica of the St. Michael the Archangel church, a typical house, and, of course, a portal. The whole structure of the church is made of wood interlocked in the Ukrainian style.

A kind of Lego, the construction toy whose concept is based on parts that fit together harmoniously. Next to the church, a typical house is home to a souvenir shop, where you can buy the famous  “pessankas”, eggs decorated with the typical art of the Ukraine.

According to tradition the “pessankas” are made in the last week of Lent and taken to church on Easter Sunday, the day they are blessed. They became a kind of amulet, a talisman – which was either kept at home or given to a friend. A giant “pessanka”, made by artist Jorge Seratiuk, makes the Memorial even more gracious.

The interior of the replica of St. Michael the Archangel church has no religious function. It is a small museum, in which are displayed icons of the Orthodox Church, a collection of “pessankas” – each more beautiful than the other – and Ukrainian handicrafts. So make a note in your travel diary: the Ukrainian Memorial – not just the best photo opportunity, but also a great memory to take with you of Curitiba.

Photo: Raul Mattar

INFORMATION:

Ukrainian Memorial

Location: Tingui Park | Between Fredolin Wolf and Jose Valle Streets.

Tel.: 41/ 3335.2112 and 3321.3313

Opening hours: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m. daily

Free admission

Ópera de Arame

Parque Tanguá

Museu Oscar Niemeyer

Centro histórico

Paço da Liberdade

Os tradicionais táxis alaranjados

Jardim Botânico

Mercado Municipal

Memorial Ucraniano

Sou pé vermeio, mas amo muito tudo isso!

Fotos: Raul Mattar